Ninh Thuan Revealed: A Coastal Odyssey Off the Beaten Path

The blue sky, the desert vegetation, the red phoenix flowers and the crystal-clear sea. What else do I need?

I was driving a motor scooter under 40-degree sun along the coastal road of Ninh Thuan. Despite the coming wind, I was sweating, thirsty and questioning myself about what I was doing. I felt like a roasted chicken on the road. However, the heat and the arid climate could not stop me from enjoying the stunning jaw-dropping sun-drenched landscape in Ninh Thuan.
And guess what was the best part?
There was no crowd.

1. So where is Ninh Thuan?

Sunrise over the beach near a fishing village in Ninh Thuan. I woke up at 3 AM and drove 40 km for this view.

Hundreds of years ago, Ninh Thuan was part of the Cham kingdom. Cham kingdom refers to a historical polity that existed in Southeast Asia, primarily in what is now modern-day Vietnam and Cambodia. The Kingdom was influenced strongly by Hinduism and later Buddhism. 

Do you want to know more about Cham Kingdom? Check this article!

Nowadays, Ninh Thuan is one of the provinces in the southeastern region of Vietnam. It is bordered in the north by Khanh Hoa, whose capital is the famous city of Nha Trang. It is titled Vietnam’s most arid province, receiving less than 800 millimeters (31 inches) of rain annually. 

2. Is it worth visiting?

This province is so far my favorite one in Vietnam. I will convince you with three reasons to visit Ninh Thuan.

Reason 1: It has stunning untouched nature.

Fruit garden in Ninh Thuan

The climate creates a desert-like landscape with sand dunes and allows industries to produce salts. That is also why the landscapes are diverse, featuring stunning coastlines, picturesque mountains, sand dunes, salt fields and vibrant greenery.

It is still remarkably untouched and has a lot to offer. Ninh Thuan is particularly appealing to those who enjoy outdoor activities. The province boasts beautiful beaches, like Vinh Hy Bay, offering opportunities for relaxation and water-based adventures. The Nui Chua National Park provides excellent hiking trails with panoramic views of the surrounding landscapes.

Reason 2: The region is also renowned for its rich cultural heritage.

God Shiva carved in the Ko Plong Garai temple

Phan Rang – Thap Cham, the province’s capital, is home to historical sites such as the Po Klong Garai Cham Towers, representing the ancient Cham architecture. Exploring these cultural landmarks provides insights into the area’s fascinating history. 

Reason 3: You need to try the unique cuisine here.

Additionally, the local cuisine is a highlight of visiting Ninh Thuan. You can try unique dishes that reflect the region’s coastal influences, with fresh seafood being a highlight. Phan Rang’s rice and chicken is the most delicious rice dish I’ve ever tried. 

If those three reasons above are not convincing enough, I have the last reason for you. Ninh Thuan is an off-the-beaten-path destination, even for locals. Mass tourism has yet to thrive in Ninh Thuan, so you should be better fast. 

3. When is the best time to visit Ninh Thuan?

Beautiful flowers bloomed over the roof of the entrance gate of a local house

It is a tricky question, but let’s break it down. 

There are three main seasons for visitors to consider: 

Dry Season (November to April):

This period is ideal for most travellers in Vietnam in general. The weather is pleasant, with warm temperatures and minimal rainfall. You can do many outdoor activities such as exploring the beaches, visiting historical sites, and walking in nature. 

February to April is particularly delightful, with clear skies and comfortable temperatures.

Hot Season (May to July):

This is special for Ninh Thuan. I was in Ninh Thuan at the end of May. Admittedly, it was not easy to travel there, and I found myself like a roasted chicken in a scooter. I hiked to the highest lighthouse located 30km south of Phan Rang – Thap Cham, which could be one of the most challenging hikes I have ever done. You should not hike to the hill around noon under 40-degree sun. 

Rainy Season (August to October):

There are many festivals, and it is time for fruit harvesting from August to October. The rainy season also contributes to lush greenery in Ninh Thuan. 

Pay attention to the fact that your activities could be affected by the rain. 

However, whether you visit Ninh Thuan in summer or later, it is hot and dry. To make it easier, visiting Ninh Thuan from Feb to April is the best option. 

4. How to get to Ninh Thuan?

By Plane:

The nearest airport to Ninh Thuan is Cam Ranh International Airport in Khanh Hoa Province. From there, you can travel approximately 70 kilometers (43 miles) to reach Phan Rang-Thap Cham City, the capital of Ninh Thuan.

By Train:

If you prefer the scenic route, take the train to Thap Cham Train Station in Phan Rang-Thap Cham City. All useful information about the trains can be found here: https://www.seat61.com/Vietnam.htm

By Bus or Car:

Buses are well connected in Vietnam. Each town in Vietnam has at least one central bus station. You can simply take any motor taxi or ask the locals where the bus station is. From other cities/provinces to Ninh Thuan, there will be several options.

You can check and buy ticket at 12go.asia or check Ve Xe Re

By hitchhiking:

This will be very interesting because I myself didn’t try to hitchhike in Vietnam. Vietnamese people are not familiar with the concept of hitchhiking. Therefore, if you try to give a sign of hitchhiking, people may think that you want to ask for ride and you have to pay. You need to clear with the drivers that you don’t have money and you just want to have a ride for free . You can write this phrase in a carton paper “Xin đi nhờ 10km” (ask for ride for free for 10km), it would help people to understand you. Check out this article if you want to try hitchhiking.

5. How to get around in Ninh Thuan?

There is no Grab in Ninh Thuan like in other big cities in Vietnam. You either choose to go by taxi, motor taxi, or rent a motor scooter/bike to go around.

If you choose to drive a motor scooter by yourself, here is my surviving guidance.

My rented scooter and me along the coastal roads in Ninh Thuan

There is no Grab in Ninh Thuan like in other big cities in Vietnam. You can go by taxi or motor taxi or rent a motor scooter/bike. 

6. How many days in Ninh Thuan?

I suggest exploring Ninh Thuan for at least two to three days. If you stay in Phan Rang – Thap Cham, you must travel 30-40 km to discover other attractions, so take time and enjoy it without stressing yourself. 

7. What to eat in Ninh Thuan?

Rice with chicken – Phan Rang style

You cannot miss this food in Ninh Thuan because you can find it only in Ninh Thuan: Cơm Gà Phan Rang (Phan Rang’s rice with chicken). 

You may wonder if it’s just rice and chicken. What’s unique about it? The way people here cook rice with coconuts, chicken soups and other ingredients makes it different from all the rice I used to eat before. Believe me! I have eaten rice for more than 30 years, and it still amazes me. 

Check out this restaurant: Cơm gà Phan Rang – Nguyễn Thái Học Street 11, Phan Rang – Thap Cham.

Here is the list of street vendors or local restaurants you should try: 

  1. Bánh Canh Chả Cá or Vietnamese thick noodle soup with fish cakes – Ngo Gia Tu Street 75 (morning and evening)
  2. Bún Mắm Nêm or Noodles with Fermented Fish Sauce– 16/4 Street, opposite the 16/4 Park
  3. Bánh Căn or mini-Vietnamese pancakes – Bánh Căn Bông Imbiss, Ho Xuan Huong Street 25, 
  4. Bánh Xèo or Vietnamese pancakes – Tran Quang Dieu Street 89, Hai Thuong Lan Ong
  5. Bánh bèo chén Phan Rang or Steamed Rice Cakes – Phan Rang style (try the sweet version unique to Phan Rang) on Ngo Quyen Street, near My Huong Elementary School
  6. Bún sứa, bún cá or Jellyfish Vermicelli Soup, Fish Vermicelli Soup – Le Loi Imbiss, Le Loi Street 97

8. Where to visit and how you can plan your trip?

You can be overwhelmed in Ninh Thuan because there are many attractions to explore. That’s why I recommend to you, based on my experience, which attractions and schedules you could follow, and if you have more time, you can check all the other options. 

Suggested plan: 

Day 1: Arrive in Phan Rang – Thap Cham, discover the city and have good food. If you arrive early in the morning, you can visit Po Klong Garai Temple. 

Day 2: Visit Po Klong Garai Cham Temple in the morning; after that, drive to see Mui Dinh lighthouse, then Ca Na Salt field, and back to Phan Rang – Thap Cham. As you can see from the map below, the Ca Na salt field is near Mui Dinh. From Mui Dinh along the coast to Ca Na is the most or second most beautiful coastal road I have ever visited. 

Day 3: Visit Vinh Hy Bay and Hang Rai. If you go back early, you can check other attractions. 

Day 4: Leave Phan Rang – Thap Cham. 

8.1. Po klong Garai Cham Temple Complex

Entrance Gate – where you start your visit

Po Klong Garai is one of Vietnam’s few most prominent Cham temples. This heritage is part of Cham culture. 

This temple was built in the late 13th and early 14th centuries to worship the king, Po Klong Garai, one the most well-known Cham Kings, who contributed significantly to the development of the Kingdom back then. 

Having gone through many historical events and destruction over time, this complex still retains intact artifacts and traditional values in Cham culture. 

Like other Cham temples, the architecture is strongly influenced by Hinduism and later Buddhism. It is divided into three main sections:

  • The entrance (gate tower)
  • The main tower (central tower)
  • The fire tower (house tower) 

The entrance and the fire tower are not for worship but only the main tower. Your journey will start with the entrance leading directly to the main tower. 

The main tower has an entrance door facing the East, with the sculpture of Shiva, the sacred god of the Cham people, and two pillars supporting the tower with ancient Cham characters. The Mukha–Linga symbol representing the king is placed inside. 

The fire tower is in the south of the cluster. This tower is designed with a two-boat-shaped curved roof, which is the typical architecture of the traditional houses of the Cham people. 

Fire tower – Po Klong Garai

The whole complex was built using high-quality materials, mainly red bricks. These bricks were fired in kilns, creating durable building blocks. The intricate carvings and sculptures adorning the towers in a symmetric structure serve decorative and functional purposes. They reinforce the structure and distribute weight, strengthening its stability over the centuries. 

The technical and engineering methods used to construct the temple remain a mystery. 

There are many small Cham temples in Ninh Thuan and neighboring provinces. However, this complex is considered the most beautiful and majestic Cham tower cluster nationwide.

8.2. Vinh Hy Bay

Vinh Hy Bay – view from the Ninh Thuan coastal roads

Vinh Hy Bay officially belongs to Ninh Thuan. However, Vinh Hy Bay geographically lies between Khanh Hoa and Ninh Thuan Province. This Bay is known for its stunning rugged cliffs, turquoise water, and hidden caves. Because of its location, you can visit Vinh Hy Bay from Khanh Hoa Province or Ninh Thuan Province. 

Since my journey was from the north to the south, I reached Vinh Hy Bay from Khanh Hoa. I stayed two nights in a guesthouse in the middle of the mountain next to the main coastal road to drive along the sea to see this beautiful Bay. 

Vinh Hy Bay in the late evening

Vinh Hy Bay is a small Bay characterized by narrow inlets, towering cliffs, and pristine beaches. Drive the motor scooters along the coast. You will see this Bay from above with hundreds of boats surrounded by lush greenery and the traditional fishing villages inhabited by the ethnic Champ people. It’s a fantastic view!

Vinh Hy Bay is still relatively untouched, and even though it is getting more famous, you will not find so many services around.  

  • You can go on boat tours, snorkel, dive, kayak, or relax on the beaches. Bai Binh Tien and Bai Rang are the two famous beaches. 
  • Nui Chua National Park surrounds Vinh Hy Bay; it is a great chance to go hiking and explore many pristine nature trails. 
  • Visiting fishing villages is a fascinating way to discover more about the Cham community’s life, their traditional way of life and fishing practices, and enjoy fresh seafood.
    Near a fishing village in Vinh Hy Bay

    8.3. Hang Rai

    Hang Rai – The waves are caressing the rocks

    Hang Rai is a unique location along the coastline of Vinh Hy Bay. It is famous for its picturesque rock formations, which have been sculptured by wind and waves for thousands of years. The place is relatively small, and there was no service nearby when I visited. 

    Unique rock formation in Hang Rai

    However, I can imagine myself sitting in a nice place in front of the sea, mesmerized by the rhythmic dance of the ocean waves caressing the rocks. It feels almost poetic, a sensory feast to savor: listening to the ocean’s call, indulging in delicious snacks and simply unwinding. 

    The ticket is around 30.000 VND (in 2022). 

    8.4. Mui Dinh Lighthouse

    Mui Dinh Lighthouse – “Happiness is a journey, not a destination.”

    I have been addicted to the lighthouse since I visited Mui Dien lighthouse in Phu Yen, Vietnam. When I learned about Mui Dinh lighthouse, excitement knew no bounds, and I immediately made plans to visit. It was, however, a challenging journey. 

    First and foremost, I had to manage my limited time in Ninh Thuan. That was why I drove the motor scooter around noon when everybody was taking a nap inside to avoid the heat. 

    Secondly, the lighthouse is 30km northeast of Phan Rang-Thap Cham. The easiest way to get there is by motor scooter. Usually, it should not be a problem except for the heat from the 40-degree sun. 

    Despite the heat and exhaustion, the journey was spectacular in itself. The vivid blue sky, the turquoise water of the sea, the winding mountain road, and the desert vegetation along the road characterizing the arid climate in Ninh Thuan painted a picturesque scene. 

    When I reached the foot of the hill to the lighthouse, I thought the most challenging part was behind me. I was wrong! The hike from the base to the lighthouse was hell. The elevation was not bad, but the combination of heat and tiredness after a long ride attacked me. However, the breathtaking view that greeted me from the top made every ounce of effort worthwhile. 

    View from Mui Dinh Lighthouse

    8.5. Salt fields

    Ca Na Salt fields with the backdrop of the mountains

    Producing salt is one of the leading agricultural drives of Ninh Thuan, and Ca Na is the most extensive salt field here. The sunrise over those salt fields is simply gorgeous. 

    Ca Na is the most picturesque place when salt harvesting takes place. The blue sky is reflected in the crystalline salt flats, acting as a mirror. The local farmers wearing iconic Vietnamese hats harvesting salts under the vivid sky are jaw-dropping moments.

    When I visited Ninh Thuan in May, which was not during harvesting, the view of the salt fields was still spectacular. The white colour of the fields, the backdrop of the mountains next to them, and the ocean stole my heart. I forgot about the heat and everything else. 

    You have more time now to explore Ninh Thuan, so you can consider visiting other attractions. 

    8.6. Nam Cuong Sand Dune

    Nam Cuong Sand Dune
    Before Nam Cuong Sand Dune, I visited the Sahara Desert in Morocco in 2018 and later saw the Dune du Pilat, the giant dune in Europe. Therefore, I was not impressed by Nam Cuong Sand Dune. However, walking in the lookalike desert landscape and enjoying the sunset is still interesting. There are few shops or services around. I recommend up to 2 hours here. 

    This dune is located 8 km from the center of Phan Rang – Thap Cham. You can easily find it on Google Maps by following the instructions. From what I heard, you should visit this dune for sunrise. 

    8.7. The central market Phan Rang

    Every city in Vietnam has at least one central market where local people go for groceries and food. Phan Rang Market is the biggest market in the town, located in the main Thong Nhat Street, Kinh Dich district. Here, you can find all necessities, with many large and small stalls specializing in wholesale and retail items, from clothing, cosmetics, and consumer goods to shoes, sandals, fresh fruits, dried squid, and fresh seafood. 

    To feel the bustling atmosphere of the market, you can come here early in the morning. The market opens from 5:30 AM to 5:30 PM. 

    If you make it to the end of this article, congratulations! 

    You are equipped with the knowledge and information to visit my favourite province in Vietnam. I am sure you will have a wonderful time. 

    Just remember to bring a hat, apply sun cream and wear sunglasses!

    You can thank me later.

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